Roller Door Installation Perth: Old Door Out, New Door In

We measure before we quote, because the figure depends on the opening more than anything else: a double opening takes far more curtain and a stronger spring than a single, and height adds to the coil. After size come the colour and finish, whether the door is manual or motorised and which opener, whether your existing motor can be kept, what it takes to remove and dispose of the old door, and whether the access is a flat driveway or a tight back lane. Commercial doors cost more than house doors because everything on them is heavier. The measure and quote are free, we charge no call-out fee, and the full price is agreed in writing before we order the door.

Bunnings sells roller doors and opener kits in standard sizes, and whether an installation service is offered with them varies by store and over time, so ask in store. The parts of the job a boxed door does not cover are the ones that catch people out: measuring so the curtain and its coil actually fit the opening, letting the tension off the old spring safely, getting the old door off the property, and matching a motor to the new door's weight. If a standard size does not match your opening, a made-to-measure door from Steel-Line, B&D or Centurion Garage Doors is the usual answer.

Repairing is cheaper whenever the fault is in one part and the rest of the door is sound. On a roller door that covers a spring that needs re-tensioning, drum wheels, a curtain edge back in its guide, a lock or a motor, and those are same-day jobs. Replacing wins when the curtain itself has gone: rusted out along the bottom, creased so it will not coil, or bowed out of square, because the curtain is a single sheet and there is no such thing as swapping the bad section. Between the two sits the old door you keep paying to patch, where another repair is money down the drain. You get that answer at the measure, and there is no call-out fee if the answer is repair.

We would not recommend it, and the reason is the spring, not the skill. A roller door's spring sits inside the drum under load; until it is let down properly the whole assembly can spin and drop the curtain, and the new door is the same in reverse, where the curtain has to be raised and clamped while the spring is wound. Add a curtain that takes two people to lift, brackets fixed into brick at height, and a motor that must have its force limit and safety reverse set before it is left running. Getting someone who fits and repairs roller doors for a living to do it means the spring, limits and safety reverse are set properly, and the old door leaves with them.

The rolled-up curtain has to live somewhere, so a roller door wants space above the lintel, and a low header or a bulkhead can rule one out. The steel curtain is a single sheet, so it offers little insulation in its plain form, it can drum in a strong wind, and its ribbed profile gives you fewer looks than a sectional door with its flat, timber-look or windowed panels. A curtain that is dented or creased is replaced rather than patched. Against that, a roller door leaves the ceiling free, costs less than a sectional door of the same size and is the simplest door to fit in a carport or shed. See roller vs sectional doors compared for the full picture.

Allow a day for a normal house door. That covers letting the old door down, loading it, fixing the new brackets and guides, hanging and tensioning the curtain, fitting the motor and testing everything, and a single or double on a sound opening does not usually need longer than that. Things that add time are brickwork or a lintel that needs sorting, a shed frame that needs packing out for the brackets, or no power near the motor. Because the curtain is made to your sizes, there is a gap between quoting and fitting, and it varies; we give you that date when we quote rather than guess here.