Roller Doors Perth: New Doors Fitted, Old Doors Kept Running

We quote after measuring rather than guessing from a phone call, because the figure moves with the opening. Size comes first: a double door uses close to twice the steel of a single and needs a heavier spring, and a taller door coils bigger. Then the colour and finish, where a standard Colorbond colour costs less than a timber-look or premium coating; then manual or motorised, and which opener; then getting the old door down and away, and any packing or fixing work the brackets and guides need. A plain single roller door remains among the most economical garage doors you can buy, which is why so many Perth carports and sheds have one. There is no call-out fee, the measure and quote cost you nothing, and the price is agreed before we order anything.

Usually, yes. Roller door openers mount beside the drum and drive the axle, so they retrofit to most manual doors. Four things need to be right first. The door has to be balanced, so it lifts by hand and stays where you leave it; a motor is there to move a balanced door, not to drag a heavy one, and a motor made to drag wears out early. The curtain has to run freely in the guides, because a motor meeting a jam will trip its force limit or push on regardless and damage the sheet. There has to be side room next to the drum for the unit and a power point within reach of its lead. And the manual lock has to come off or be disabled, since a motor trying to lift a locked curtain will tear it. Merlin, Jaytech, Superlift and Steel-Line are the openers we supply, install and service, and the balance and the lock get sorted on the same visit.

The steel curtain on a Perth roller door commonly lasts fifteen years or more when it is looked after, but the parts around it wear at different rates. The spring in the drum relaxes with use and eventually needs re-tensioning or replacing; the drum wheels and guide liners wear from sand; and an opener is usually replaced before the door it drives. Salt is what shortens the whole lot, so a door in Scarborough, Hillarys or Fremantle has a harder life than the same door in Ellenbrook, as does a door that is never hosed or lubricated. Rust through the bottom rail, a creased curtain and a door that has been forced off its guides more than once are the usual signs that pricing a replacement makes more sense than another repair.

It depends on the garage more than the door. A roller door coils above the opening and leaves the ceiling untouched, so it is the answer for carports, sheds, short garages and anyone with storage racks over the car, and a plain Colorbond roller door is the cheaper of the two. A sectional door travels up and back under the ceiling on tracks, so it needs a clear ceiling, and in exchange it offers a choice of panel profiles, glazing, insulation and a quieter run, which is why it fills the street-facing openings on newer estates. If you are still weighing it up, we have set the two side by side in our comparison of roller and sectional doors.

Sometimes, and it comes down to where the damage is and whether the curtain still coils. A shallow dent in the middle of the sheet that does not stop the door running is mostly a looks decision; a careful push-out from behind can improve it, though the ribs rarely come back perfectly. A crease is different. Once the ribbed sheet has folded it never rolls flat again, it catches in the guides on every cycle, and the fold spreads. A creased or torn curtain gets replaced, not repaired. What can often be kept is everything around it: the brackets, the drum, the guides if they are straight, and the motor. Whether a new curtain on the old hardware beats a complete new door depends on the door's age and what a curtain for it costs, and we price both so you can compare.

We do those as well, under our commercial roller door service rather than this page, because the doors are a different animal: heavier curtains, bigger drums, chain hoists or three-phase motors, and shutters rather than ribbed curtains on shopfronts. Breakdown call-outs for factory units, workshops and shopfronts in Osborne Park, Wangara, Malaga, Welshpool, Bibra Lake and the other industrial strips run 24/7, 365 days a year, with no call-out fee and the repair priced before work starts. If your door is on a home garage or a shed, even a large one, it is a residential job and this page is the right place.

We would steer you away from it, and not because it needs rare tools. The spring lives inside the drum under load, and tension is adjusted by raising the curtain, clamping it so it cannot drop, and winding the drum on its axle. If the clamp slips or the curtain is let go, the drum spins back under full spring force and the curtain comes down; hands, fingers and faces are what get hurt. Getting it right also takes a feel for how many turns a given door height and curtain weight wants, and a spring that has snapped inside the drum means the drum comes off. What you can safely do yourself is keep the guides clean, use a dry silicone spray rather than grease, and take notice when the door starts feeling heavier, because that is the spring asking for attention before it fails.

Repairs are mostly one visit. Re-tensioning a spring, putting a curtain back in its guides, replacing drum wheels, fitting a lock and most motor faults are handled from what the van carries, and same-day means the day you ring, any day of the year. A new roller door involves a wait, because the curtain is made to your measurements and colour, and how long depends on the maker, the colour and the time of year; we give you that when we quote. The install day itself, old door out and carted off, new door up, tensioned, motorised and run through its cycles, is normally done within the day for a standard single or double, longer if the opening needs work.